The province of Imperia is a border area, a land of magic where the green of the Italian flag turns to blue as – leaving Villa Hanbury and the Balzi Rossi - you approach Menton and the Côte d’Azur.
The European Union having fostered friendship between peoples and abolition of customs booths, one can easily forget the not-so-far times of passeurs moving swiftly from one country to the other in order to protect the passage of bandits and smugglers along impervious mountain trails.
Your first tourist treat – in fact – stands right near the old frontier: the “trenino delle meraviglie” (a Trenitalia regular service train) climbs the Val Roja, crosses the Tende tunnel (1,300 mts. a.s.l.), reaches the ski pistes of Limone Piemonte (Val Vermegnana) and travels on to Cuneo and Turin. The track is daring and panoramic - its viaducts and helicoidal tunnels are masterpieces of engineering – crisscrossing Italy and France (Breil and its fairytale swan lake, Saorge, Brigue, Tende) and siding the Parc National du Mercantour, known for its prehistoric petroglyphs.
From Ventimiglia to Imperia the whole Ligurian entroterra is dotted by numberless medieval borghi, composing an extraordinary mosaic through the valleys of the Nervia and Argentina streams.
Prior to your inland tour, do not miss a visit to the “Museo della Canzone” in Vallecrosia, designed by late Erio Tripodi aboard three ancient train carriages (look out for the 1910 steam locomotive).
Leave the Aurelia and head north to Dolceacqua, a secluded village clinging to the rock of the mountain. The hunchback bridge and the towering castle (named after the ubiquitous Doria household) are the markers of the borgo, whose enchantment shows also in the works of Claude Monet, who fell in love with the Impressionist atmosphere of the place. A corner of tranquillity rich in shady carruggi, soft street lamps, colourful flowerboxes and… tantalizing delicatessen stops. Go into serious tasting and have a glass of Rossese, the most relevant red wine of Liguria: enjoy its vigorous temper (featuring the peculiar goudron hint) at cellar temperature, the perfect match to the hearty dishes of local cuisine – goat stew with beans, game, rabbit en casserole with olives, mushrooms, and stockfish-based brandacujun.
Drive straight on to Pigna, a renowned thermal resort appreciated for its sulphurous waters. The village is traversed by a maze of “chibi” (caruggi, alleys) enncircling the remarkable 15th century church of San Michele. The magic of Pigna pervades the surroundings. To appreciate the rarity of these dolomitic habitats,and the variety of fauna and flora, you are well-advised to trek to the Melosa or Grai rifugi.
As for shopping, must-buys include beans (fresh and dry), grown in heroic dry-stone terraces - like in nearby Badalucco and Conio – and featuring in a host of recipes of the cuisine du terroir (e.g. stewed goat). Their delicacy is exalted by simple dishes: a dash of extra virgin, some chopped onion and pepper represent their ideal seasoning.
On driving back southwards, you are given two alternatives. Turn right to Rocchetta Nervina, known by rafting enthusiast and by hikers - the Paù and Testa dell’Alpe rifugi (1,475 mts. a.s.l.) standalong the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri. Turn left to sunny Apricale, a village of wonders animated by cultural events and fairs (if you belong to the sweet tooth type be sure to drop by on September 8th, the entire day is devoted to pansarole, tasty sweet fritters). ...